【双语】大长腿的背后:维密秀除了看性感 还看什么?
发布于 4个月前 作者 kinglism 1197 次浏览 来自 高考

大秀现场话题不断——奚梦瑶主场不慎摔跤;王思聪站着看秀上热搜;“璀璨香槟之夜梦幻内衣”惊艳亮相…… 别着急,这就来带大家回顾2017维密秀的精彩看点,顺便带大家看看热闹背后的门道~~

The star-studded, super-hyped Victoria’s Secret lingerie show hits the catwalk in Shanghai on Monday, the first time the US brand is holding its self-described “sexiest show on earth” outside the United States or Europe. 11月20日,众星云集、备受瞩目的维密内衣T台秀在上海举行,这是维密首次在欧美之外的国家举办其“世界最性感走秀”。

Fifty-five models walked the catwalk inside the Mercedes-Benz Arena, serenaded by Harry Styles, R&B star Miguel, Tony Award-winner Leslie Odom Jr. and Chinese singer Jane Zhang. 共55位超模在梅赛德斯奔驰文化中心登台走秀,表演嘉宾有哈里·斯泰尔斯、R&B天王米格尔、托尼奖获得者小莱斯利·奥多姆以及中国歌手张靓颖等。

Chinese media reported that Hadid and Perry were denied visas. 据中国媒体报道,美国模特吉吉·哈迪德和水果姐凯蒂·佩里均被拒签。

Gigi Hadid and Katy Perry were scheduled to take part but bowed out just days before the show. Hadid’s no-show came a few months after Chinese internet users accused her of racist behavior. She had been seen squinting her eyes on an Instagram video. 吉吉·哈迪德和凯蒂·佩里(水果姐)原本计划参加,但在离维密秀仅剩几天的时候退出。哈迪德无缘维密秀是因为几个月前中国网友指责她有种族歧视行为。

The Global Times published a commentary on Sunday titled “Victoria’s Secret models’ visa denial is of their own making.” 11月19日《环球时报》发表了题为《维密秀明星没拿到签证怪不得中国》的评论文章。

The story named Hadid and Perry and said celebrities who want a piece of the booming Chinese market need to respect what it said were Chinese values. 文中提到了哈迪德和佩里,称明星要想在繁荣的中国市场有一席之地,就需要尊重中国的价值观。

“They are lifting a stone only to drop on their own feet due to their ignorance of these issues. Payback was unavoidable. Those who are serious about developing careers in the Chinese market can draw lessons from this case and learn to abide by the rules in China,” the newspaper said. 文章写道:“她们可能就是在这些领域无知,自己砸了自己在中国的场子。她们付出相应的代价不可避免,对于愿意认真在中国市场发展的人来说,这样的教训会被从磨合的角度积极加以审视。”

Shanghai-native Ming Xi slipped and fell to her knees, saying afterward she felt “so disappointed with myself.” A nearby model helped her up and she said many of the others asked if she was OK. “That’s what Victoria’s Secret is — everyone loves each other and we have the most beautiful family in the world.” 土生土长的上海人奚梦瑶滑倒跪地,事后她说“对不起让大家失望了”。身边的一位模特帮忙将她扶起,很多模特都来关心她的状况。“这就是维多利亚的秘密——每个人都相互关爱,我们拥有世界上最美丽的家庭。”

Last year the VS tapped a record four Asian models and, in a nod to this year’s hosts, Shanghai features seven of Chinese origin. 去年的维密秀创下亚裔模特数量新纪录,多达4位。今年为致敬东道主,中国的维密天使多达7位。

They are led by China’s top model Liu Wen, the first Asian on Forbes’ annual list of the world’s highest-paid fashion divas. 此次中国超模团由刘雯带领,她是首个登上《福布斯》杂志模特高薪收入排行榜的亚洲模特。

She was joined by Wang Yi, Xie Xin, Sui He, Xiaowen Ju, Ming Xi, and Estelle Chen. 一同参与此次上海秀的还有王艺、谢欣、何穗、雎晓雯、奚梦瑶和陈瑜。

Model Lais Ribeiro was charged with the task of carrying 600 carats down the catwalk while sporting the Champagne Nights Fantasy Bra studded with 6,000 gemstones. 今年的“璀璨香槟之夜梦幻内衣”由巴西超模莱斯·里贝罗演绎,这款梦幻内衣手工镶嵌了6000颗名贵宝石,总重600克拉。

Designed by Mouawad, organizers said the bra valued at $2 million took nearly 350 hours to create. It features diamonds, yellow sapphires and blue topaz. 这套梦幻内衣由世界知名珠宝商懋琬打造。维密方称,这款内衣镶嵌了钻石、黄宝石和蓝色托帕石,价值高达200万美元(约合人民币1320万元),耗时近350小时打造。

The show ended with a tribute to lingerie designs based on various ethnic and native origins — with models donning rainbow colored feathers and beaded jewelry. 超模身上的秀服融合了彩色羽毛和串珠首饰,设计灵感来自于多元的民族文化。最后,全体人员向设计师致敬,本次维密秀圆满落下帷幕。

看完了热闹,我们再来讲讲门道。从未离开欧美的维密秀为什么将今年的秀场选在了中国上海?这背后其实是维密的战略转向↓

自2016年维秘销量下滑11% In early 2016, Victoria’s Secret doubled down on sexy underwear. It pulled its swimsuit and apparel collections off the shelves, slashed promotional deals and stopped printing the Victoria’s Secret catalog. 2016年初,维密加倍力度进军性感内衣市场,将泳装和女装撤下货架,削减促销订单,停印维密产品宣传册。

“The company walked away from $400 million at the same time they changed their promotional appeal,” said Instinet analyst Simeon Siegel. “维密在改变促销诉求时流失了4亿美元(约合人民币26亿元)。” 极讯公司分析师西蒙·西格尔说。

While Victoria’s Secret was in the middle of its reboot, a consumer shift took hold that opened the door for competitors: “Bralettes.” 当维密正在重振旗鼓之时,其“无钢圈无胸垫内衣”使得消费者群体发生了转变,为竞争对手打开了大门。

“Anyone who could make a T-shirt could make a bralette,” said Siegel. “只要会做T恤的都会做无钢圈无胸垫内衣。” 西格尔说。

At the same time, online shopping hurt Victoria’s Secret, a staple of malls across the country. 同时,美国众多商场的维密店面销售也受到线上销售的打击。

Victoria’s Secret sales have slipped 11% from last year, parent company L Brands reported on Thursday. 维密母公司L Brands 16日表示,自去年开始维密销量下滑了11%。

Despite headwinds from bralettes and a rapidly-changing retail industry, Victoria’s Secret says its best days are still ahead. 尽管其无钢圈无胸垫内衣的销售一路遭到逆风,零售业也是瞬息万变,维密仍然表示前景大好。

Analysts also say there is significant opportunity in international markets like China. The store’s annual fashion show was in Shanghai this month for the first time. 分析师们也表示像中国这样的国际市场还有很大的机遇。一年一度的维密时尚大秀本月首次在上海举行。

Victoria’s Secret opened a flagship store in Shanghai in February of this year. Its annual fashion show is touted as the most expensive in the world, with Ed Razek, the show’s executive producer, telling the New York Times that 2016’s event cost $20 million. The show features diamond and Swarovski-adorned costumes, and this year includes a collaboration with French fashion label Balmain. 今年2月,维密上海旗舰店开幕。其一年一度的时尚大秀以昂贵奢侈而闻名,维密秀制作人Ed Razek在接受《纽约时报》采访时表示,2016年的大秀共花费2000万美元(约合人民币1.3亿元)。维密秀以展示由钻石和施华洛世奇水晶装饰的服装为特色,而今年的活动更是与法国时尚品牌巴尔曼进行了合作。

The big-spending strategy could resonate well in the Chinese marketplace. Anusha Couttigane, senior fashion analyst at consultancy firm Kantar Retail said that in order to capture Chinese shoppers’ attention, “it is essential (for brands) to have some fanfare as Chinese consumers tend to be responsive to grand, high profile showcases.” 这种大手笔策略能够在中国市场引起良好的反响。凯度零售咨询公司的高级时尚分析师Anusha Couttigane表示,为了吸引中国买家的注意,“(对一些品牌来说)大张旗鼓的宣传是十分必要的,因为中国消费者往往对华丽张扬的产品更感兴趣。”

Lingerie is among the fastest growing segments of Chinese women’s apparel market, reaching 112 billion yuan ($17 billion) in 2015, according to market-intelligence firm Mintel Group, which projects it will grow by another 32 percent by 2020. 女式内衣是中国女性服装市场上销量增长最快的产品之一。根据英敏特市场信息公司的统计显示,2015年女式内衣年产值达1120亿元,而到2020年,年产值预计会再增长32%。

Matthew Crabbe, director of research for Asia-Pacific at Mintel said that “Chinese consumers are receptive to foreign brands that ooze quality and cachet. They are increasingly wealthy, and can therefore afford to buy such brands. They are also increasingly well-traveled, and therefore exposed to more foreign brands.” 英敏特亚太区研究总监Matthew Crabbe表示,“中国消费者青睐质量上乘、显示尊贵身份的外国品牌。中国人正在一天天富起来,所以他们能够买得起这样的品牌。他们也逐渐变得见多识广,所以会接触到更多外国品牌。”

But for Victoria’s Secret and other such international players keen to tap into the Chinese market, “the old caveats remain,” Crabbe said. “Foreign brands have to do their homework.” 但是对于费尽心机打进中国市场的维密和其他国际大牌来说,“还是那句老话,”Crabbe说,“没有金刚钻,就别揽瓷器活”。

Victoria’s Secret will be put to the test during the holiday shopping stretch and into next year, said Morgan Stanley analyst Kimberly Greenberger. 据摩根士丹利公司的分析师Kimberly Greenberger预测,在接下来的假期购物季和明年,维密将会受到严峻考验。

But analysts like Greenberger are optimistic about the store’s strength in the long run. Victoria’s Secret still holds the largest market share of intimate apparel in the country and can fend off new rivals as it continues to adapt to changing customer preferences. 但Greenberger等一众分析师对维密的长远发展持乐观态度。维密仍占有美国内衣市场的最大份额。另外,维密积极调整自身去迎合消费者不断变化的品味,完全可以应对新的竞争对手。


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